Dirty Scooters - Lambretta Li 150 series 2 restore and 64 GL malossi 221

wedgie - A Brief Update

2009-08-24T05:55:00.000-07:00

Pictured is my Li150 that I sold recently. No that is not me, That is MAnni from the Stone Roses and Primal Scream. They toured Melbourne recently and we had him around at my workshop and a few cool bars.

Wow, since we last spoke plenty has happened.
- The tv175 was put on the road and ridden daily for at least a year. Maintaining the barn fresh look, I got the internals running beautifully so I just looks like it will break down any second. Let the registrartion lapse due to getting a lovely Li150 series 2 and using that as my daily. That's another story.
- the Li150 basket case was sold for what I paid for it. Didn't seem worth having as I had a complete and running version by then.
- The Dirty Rocket was ridden around Tasmania, as well as a trip to the national in South Australia. Beautiful bike. I put it off the road when I registered the TV175 and after a year I decided to sell. It went to South Australia.
- The 'Limahl' LML t5 200 sat in my office for a few years until a mate and fellow scooterist showed an interest. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder I say. He is still using it and it looks rather tidy compared to when I had it.
- My Li150 series 2 that I bought since my last confession was a little ripper. I installed a casa 185 kit in it as well as a big bore exhaust, a varitronic ignition, etc etc. Recently I have put it back to stock barrel and sold it to a young fella who is thrilled to have the opportunity to own a genuine Lambretta.
- In the midst of all this I have set up as a professional classic scooter mechanic AND have bought a 1971 triumph Bonneville. Quite a handful to say the least . CLICK HERE for the blog

TV John - Lambretta naming right save the day

2007-09-18T16:46:00.000-07:00

Meet the whole family... in a place called 'scooterlabs.net'
From the left.... on a stand is The Li150 (Juan fitty), then TV John (TV175), up above the VNA frame that inspired the Dirty rocket project, then Limahl (LML T5 - red and black), then the Dirty Rocket behind the table.

My wife has demanded naming rights for the TV and decided (instantly) on "TV John" after our favourite character from the Hamish Macbeth series. A small price to pay for being busted with two Lambrettas in the workshop.
Anyway, here's a snippet from an email I wrote to a mate summing up recent news ont eh TV175 progress.

TV News..........
Rebuilt the bottom end. Firstly I discovered my cases were cracked in the cylinder stud causing a dodgy transfer port. Managed to get them welded and te-tapped by THE MAN recommended by Brenton. He was good, and loved doing it (Ferrari and scooter guy).
In doing so found the crank had been messed with so had to replace it.
There are not too many places in Australia you can drive 3 minutes to pick up a new tv175 crank on a Saturday.
Had a few issues with the head gasket (had to lap it).
Due to me thinking the piston was upside down (it wasn't) then reassembling, then discovering it was the head loose, I can now get my barrel off and on again... Back on the road in 65 minutes. Not bad for a beginner.
Once running nicely I took it for a roadworthy, explaining to the dudes about the special category in the Sydney Lambretta Show that I had prepared it for. I told them as the president of the *&^&&*(*($@^ (mumble) I was responsible for providing a completely safe scooter that LOOKED like it was fresh from a barn but had all new and safe innards. This seemed to work.
Next was the Vicroads inspection. No probs there. The only danger is beaurocratic bungles, such as missing receipt, discrepancies in year and vin numbers, etc.

Next episode... i put it on the lift to sort out a cable routing issue. The throttle cable seemed to pull away from the carb when on the stand causing a high idle. When on the lift I noticed a considerable amount of play in the rear wheel. After a few phone calls I was still undecided whether to push ahead and leave the gearbox for after Sydney. A bit of internet research made me wonder whether the end plate nuts were loose. Keeping in mind I didn't even know what and endplate was, I was interested to find a bunch of loose nuts on something I would refer to as an end plate if I was doing the naming. Pulled the studs out, cleaned them up and smothered in loctite. Everything else seemed intact so I went back to the idea of doing the shimming and dog replacement after Sydney. Now it is nice and tight and handles well. Brakes ok, accelerates OK, starts OK. I thought the headlight was broken, but is is just a terrible 6v headlight . No wonder the Mods of the night put a few extra lights on.

Current worries

1) old wiring craps out before I restore

2) worried the endplate studs may loosen again

3) paying the price for not changing the kickstart seal as now it has done 20km's has started to leak.

4) died suddenly on the road last night. After full spark/fuel diagnosis it started again and ran fine. Worried about gettign used to the nature of the Lammy.

Too much TV to blog - my new lambretta

2007-09-03T01:50:00.000-07:00

I suppose you are wondering how the series 2 lambretta is going???? well nowhere really. I have sourced a headset top and a flywheel.
I HAVE, however, started a national scooter magazine, bought a barn find TV 175, set up a shared access workshop space for classic scooters and got the TV to a state of roadworthiness.
Each of these things deserves at least an entry each, and I will endeavor to gather posts from various forums describing my progress with each project.

Currently the TV is in bits as I attempt to rebuild the bottom end prior to the sydney 2007 Lambretta 60th birthday celebrations. About ten of the Melbourne Crusaders SC are trucking up so as to have the most time showing the Sydneysiders how to party.

when I pulled the barrel off there was an unfortunate chunk missing from the cases. One of the studs has been over torqued many years ago (the bike hasn't been registered sine 1982) and the side of the thread is exposed right inside a transfer port.

I have sent the case to a known genius in the field of case welding, and hopefully will be rebuilding this weekend.

the keys in the drawer - what's the metalfor?

2007-02-05T20:15:00.000-08:00

You know the mixed emotion you get when you have searched for the keys for 2 hours only to find them in your pocket? Extreme relief at having found them, with a fair bit of grief for the lost time as well as a hint of shame at the stupidity.
Read on friends, and find out how I fixed my vibration issues.

I think I can beat Paul's "total rebuild to fix a cracked exhaust" story.
After changing the crank, bearings, exhaust mounts 3 times, new
flywheel and engine mounts I am pretty sure the engine cowling is
rubbing on the engine side panel.
Just after fiddling with the exhaust mounts one more time, I noticed
the wear marks and rode up and down with the panel off... all was well.
So why did the vibes go away when the exhaust stub was loose you ask?
I'll tell ya.
Because the throttle cable I used to stop the header falling off was
pressing the cooling shroud in and away from the panel.

I'll never be completely sure 'cos I bashed the shit outa the panel to
clear the shroud before testing. Perhaps the bit of inner tube behind
the case to exhaust mount did the trick.

Hmm. Glad it is over anyhow.

Anyway, I now have a perfectly good spare race crank and flywheel to sell.

While we're at it, the SIP performance expansion chamber is back on (see jetting page in links)
A quick blat on the freeway saw an easy cruise at 110 (genuine) with plenty to go. I backed off when the temp soared to 400. I'll change the main jet and see.

derek's s2 Li150 shopping list

2006-12-30T18:56:00.000-08:00

if you are perveyor of Lambretta parts and you want to send the kids through uni', keep an eye on this ever evolving wish list.

Pre shakedown..... (note I am yet to see what mileage it did prior to being garaged)

seat covers
stainless nut and bolt kit
side panels
headset top
grips
floor rail kit
cables - all
wiring loom -
taillight lens
tyres and tubes
engine rebuild kit - bearings
all seals
clutch rebuild kit

maybe...

electronic ignition kit
top end/ or just oversized piston

- THE DIRTY LIE -

2006-12-29T21:57:00.000-08:00

While the bench is still warm from the 'dirty rocket project' I have gone and started another one.
After procuring and attaching EVERY single part of the malossi 221 px engined '63 GL, I have decided to have a crack at an original restore. This time it's a LAMBRETTA.
Yep, I've crossed the floor.
This time the scooter is nearly complete, so each time I need a new part I will at least have the old/worn/broken one to refer to.

More later when I come to grips with what I have done.

The bike will be called the 'Dirty Lie'. Built by dirty derek.... Li model, and the whole process of aquiring parts will involve many a little white lie to my wife. I already said I got it for nothing.

Two horses with one stone

2006-12-19T17:30:00.000-08:00

I got a bee in my bonnet and pulled off my sito (2500kms),reshaped the
stub hole and replaced the clamp from an old stock one.
I formed some flashing, smeared it with Dirko (red goo) and banged it on.
It really feels like I am getting more horses in the mid range and the
vibrations are all but gone. (well, relatively anyway).

The malossi stub was in a terrible state, but considering it has been
rubbed approximately....20,571,428 times I think I'm lucky to seal it
at all.

Alltogether a great result. (I never considered the loose stub to be the cause of some of my vibrations).

If you look at the picture I have drawn a green line to indicate where i think the power curve might be now. It's only guess work. It doesn't look much diffrent but averages a horsepower more acrodd th lower and midrange. I haven't tested full throttle yet so I won't get carried away with my green virtual texta.

If I was chasing numbers I would put on the JL pipe I have in the workshop and the curve would resemble the matterhorn. It just seems like a lot of trouble to impress YOU. I had it on the Malossi 210 and it

Taking a peek at the Map - of- Tassie

2006-12-18T04:56:00.000-08:00

I'm taking the dirty rocket to Tasmania with the Wife as a pillion as well as all the camping gear.
This trip has symbolically represented the 'goal' of the GL project. A classic scooter with enough grunt to take us both around Tasmania.
I must admit my wife was surprised when i said I had booked the ferry. Even though I have gone on about doing it for a few years, I think she was hoping the dream would fizzle out.
I found this....
Either it will sling across the back of the seat giving my wife lumbar support while the bags hang on the back of the cowls, or I will make a support to put it on the back rack. We'll see when it arrives.

Two fine horses

2006-12-18T04:25:00.000-08:00

Quick updates starting today and working back..
Went for a quick blat on the dyno and pulled 2hp more than last time. (pre-28mm carb/reed/ long stroke crank)
I have made a chart showing where the speeds are in different gears.
It shows that, if I get to 8000rpm in 3rd(104 kmh) then shift gears, I will drop to 2000 rpm and 1.75 horsepower. The yellow highlighter shows the climb from hte change to full revs in most gears, showing the need to lose the little dip after 90kmh (4th).

Also..... I had a couple of issues changing gear inermittently. I rebuilt the clutch (cosa) and found a warped top steel plate, damaged tabs on the cork plates and slightly burnt corks. I have yet to settle on what caused this, but it is either failure due to petrol in the oil, naughty riding, or plates put in the wrong order. I used logic to put the plates in last time, and this could have been a bad idea. This time I have gone by the parts picture.
1. slightly thicker plate (small notch on one tab)
2. thick plate with shorter cog tabs.
3. thin
4 thin

Also.. I took the scooter to a music festival (Meredith- drones, dallas crane, Tapes and Tapes, Rose Tattoo, Soundtrack of our lives, New Pornographers, Augie March, etc etc.).
The trip home was in 42 degree heat (109) and there was nothing out of order. Well, the carb did fall off a few times but that was a learning curve on how tight to do up hose clamps in hot weather. The soft rubber simply spat the carb out when done up tight.

A nice cruising speed of 95 was achieved .

Also... the bike ran well three weeks ago at the Mt Beauty 'Mountain Goat rally' . 1000km on a pre-dialled in carb and I was well and truly ready to get it right. Over the windy mountains was great while the top speed was poor on the way home on the wind.

so many stories to tell

2006-11-30T13:08:00.000-08:00

The picture is me in the victorian alps on the 'Mountain goat scooter Run' - 2006
It was taken from the back of Ifan's '64 Lambretta 150.

so I don't forget...
flywheel vibrations (not crank)
shot Hall Effect Sensor (twice)
New flywheel
1000km weekend (without a breakdown)
... at 3/4 throttle - now repaired.
Second hand genuine PWK carb - dodgy fuel valve seat
currently dialing in ..
weekend- GJK needle-136 main run a bit hot at 1/2 - 3/4 throttle. cooler when the throttle control opened up more (vna handlebar only gives so much throttle movement pre-dremel)

LJK needle - tremendous mid reange throttle. Full a bit gutless (and hot)
132 main

LJKneedle, 140 main dropped needle one clip from centre - still great response at half to 3/4. Main seems ok, but no highway test as yet. 1/4 throttle very boggy.

same as above but richened the clip position to one notch below centre - about to test.

It seems i still can't tell the difference between rich and lean by feel.. one day maybe

you can't handle the truth

2006-10-29T01:58:00.000-08:00

The handling issues became more and more apparent. I added the 'engine mount stabilisers' from 'hot rod scooters' that I had lying around. I thought the engine mount area was the problem. This didn't help, so I put in new rubber engine mounts, removing the uprated urethane ones. This didn't help either but it did reduce vibrations by a lot. This is a rlief and was something I intended sooner or later anyway.
I went to see Klaus (scooter expert and collector) and he went around the block, instantly blaming the steering bearings for the wierd handling..... so below is the final post on th ebbs forum explaining how I dealt with it.

Another problem solved... and here's what happened (for future searches).
I bought all new post 63 bearings and races.(apparently they are all the same from then on ... but I find it hard to believe).

I pulled out the fork and had a look at the upper and lower bearing races. Both seemed to be deeper than the new ones. Seeing as I was committed to the PK lower lower cone, I decided to try and remove the lower frame race from the GL frame. Fortunately it was a later style without the sleeve going up the tube.
I made a tool (handy owning a metal shop , albeit wrought iron) to extract the race and it worked fine. Before I could measure the old race to see if the new one would go in, I dropped it into the frame channel (forever).
Two hours of fiddling, sanding, making tools and hammering saw the new bottom frame race go in. Everything else was a doddle.
Before reassembling I had to clean up and rush out to a wedding (congrat's Dave and Kerrie), so I didn't have that magic feeling of a well handling old vespa until this morning.
Cruising at 60 kmh, I took my hands off the bars no probs, then applied the rear brake. It tracked straight and true. Now the project is complete, and thanks to this bearing issue, I changed back to rubber engine mounts, killing the vibrations and proving the old mazz crank to be useable in the future (I blamed it for the vibrations and ordered a new balanced LS crank).

testing 1-....ooh

2006-10-26T19:45:00.001-07:00

Probably done a hundred k's so far, and last night thought i'd let the revs do their thing.
Then it died. Here's the BBS transcripts...
Finally had the courage to test the new motor at high revs (in 3rd) and it stopped dead.
Not a seize
Not the fuel
compresion is fine
Spark has no bits on it, looks in good shape and is chocolatty brown.
No spark
Isolated engine (pulled green wire)

question.... After I find out it is not the spark, cap or lead, what is the most likely electronic thing to shit itself at high revs? CDI or stator?

cheers
derek

derek
63 GL 220
port matched malossi kitted px200 lump

I'd check in order-
Compression (just feeling it by kicking it over)
Spark
Fuel
Timing (sheared key?)

Thanks E. so far.....
compression- OK
fuel - OK
spark - no
spark with two other cdi's - no
spark from end of lead - NO
does a sheared woodruff prevent spark? Logically it would create a spark, but just at the wrong time to start the bike.

I am stranded at home 15 km from my workshop. i have a junior member of staff bringing half my tools in the truck.
What I want ... to remove the flywheel and solder a loose wire back onto the stator.

derek
63 GL 220
port matched malossi kitted px200 lump

>junior member of staff bringing half my tools in the truck.
>What I want ... to remove the flywheel and solder a loose
>wire back onto the stator.

yep. happened to me just like that. 140 miles from home.

white wire has been rubbing on flywheel near the stator. The insulation has worn off but the wire is intact.
Is if the white wire is rubbing on the inside of the flywheel, will this kill my spark?

jUnior forgot the multimeter, so I'll stitch it back together with some tape and see what happens.

derek
derek
63 GL 220
port matched malossi kitted px200 lump
... now I have found the desired resistance from the stator...

Here are the #'s to test the sparking coil and pick-up.

resistance between white and green 500 +/- 20 - ME-spot on
"" white and red 110 +/- 5 - ME - 37,000 ohms

I have ordered a new stator from GPS imports in Abbotsford, and booked an express courier to bring them to me in my home. I am determined to get to work ON MY DIRTY ROCKET at some stage today.

'

gordon's alive

2006-10-19T18:05:00.000-07:00

It works. today the inaugural ride to the servo for fuel went without too much trouble. (naturally it revealed a leak in the fuel tank lid ).
Gear changes are a bit iffy and the clutch, while engaging quite far out on the lever action, still grabs.
things to do...
-fix fuel tank lid
-attach bike speedo
-attach cht guage
-sort out mirror
-get chrome toggle for spotties (by the way the spotlight kit was great and came with all the wires, junctions and even chrome coil cable covers). The switch they came with is plastic and doesn't suit my look.

note - did 10km today an dall seems good. The motor is very responsive. Handling is a bit strange, but I assume that it is a matter of getting used to a new bike. The front brake is no good at all so I must decide whather to get a new PK drum, or go ahead and install a disc kit.

one drop of essence of terror, two drops of sinister sauce....

2006-10-17T15:05:00.000-07:00

well it runs.
Problems...

Gear change cables don't work too good
Throttle control doesn't open it out all the way
No bolt for old sito plus
clutch cable jumps out of position (therefore front brake may do the same)
no holding clip on gear change shaft
carb floods (probably due the upward angle of the malossi reed block intake manifold).

Solutions....

Gear change cables don't work too good- fiddle around and make sure it is not just incorrect tension
Throttle control doesn't open it out all the way - I can dremel off part of the stopper in the headset
No bolt for old sito plus- buy one
clutch cable jumps out of position (therefore front brake may do the same) - dunno, fiddle a bit and see what's what
no holding clip on gear change shaft - tgry to make something or buy something - research availability of spring steel
carb floods (probably due the upward angle of the malossi reed block intake manifold).- change the float position and hope it doesnt cause fual starvation.

.... mor eto come I'm sure.....

feeling cranky

2006-10-16T04:47:00.000-07:00

well today the crank and head arrived, but the wait saw loads of gardening get done.
They were packed badly with the crank exposed to any impact during transit. we will only really know if it has been knocked out of true when I start it.
I installed the crank, eventually got the flyside inner race on and closed up the cases.
The crank spins ok, and I put the cylinder on. As it is a long stroke crank and I am using the deepened head rather than a thick base gasket, I must be careful to align the head so the piston doesn't hit the head on the way to top dead centre.
Oh, and also I had to dremel off soem of the malossi reed block to get the cases to close up.
Tomorrow night the engine goes in the bike... yikes!

ah, ups

2006-10-12T05:19:00.000-07:00

Location	Date	Local Time	Description
ASCOT VALE, VIC, AU	16/10/2006	2:15	IN-TRANSIT SCAN
ASCOT VALE, VIC, AU	14/10/2006	10:53	IMPORT SCAN
ASCOT VALE, VIC, AU	13/10/2006	22:11	PACKAGE DATA PROCESSED BY BROKERAGE. WAITING FOR CLEARANCE;RELEASED BY CLEARING AGENCY. NOW IN-TRANSIT FOR DELIVERY
	13/10/2006	21:21	PACKAGE DATA PROCESSED BY BROKERAGE. WAITING FOR CLEARANCE
	13/10/2006	21:21	REGISTERED WITH CLEARING AGENCY;SHIPMENT SUBMITTED TO CLEARING AGENCY
	13/10/2006	21:21	REGISTERED WITH CLEARING AGENCY;RELEASED BY CLR AGENCY. NOW IN-TRANSIT
CHANGI, SG	13/10/2006	6:45	ARRIVAL SCAN
KOELN (COLOGNE), DE	10/10/2006	23:30	ORIGIN SCAN
	10/10/2006	23:29	EXPORT SCAN
	10/10/2006	23:17	EXPORT SCAN
	10/10/2006	21:06	ARRIVAL SCAN
	10/10/2006	16:49	ARRIVAL SCAN
HERNE-BOERNIG, DE	10/10/2006	15:39	DEPARTURE SCAN
	10/10/2006	14:49	DEPARTURE SCAN
	10/10/2006	11:23	ARRIVAL SCAN
FRANKFURT, DE	10/10/2006	7:30	DEPARTURE SCAN
	10/10/2006	6:15	ARRIVAL SCAN
DITZINGEN, DE	10/10/2006	3:08	DEPARTURE SCAN
WENDLINGEN, DE	09/10/2006	23:11	DEPARTURE SCAN
	09/10/2006	20:44	ARRIVAL SCAN
GERSTHOFEN, DE	09/10/2006	19:25	ORIGIN SCAN
DE	09/10/2006	11:24	BILLING INFORMATION RECEIVED

Tracking results provided by UPS: 15/10/2006 5:31 Eastern Time (EST)/New York Time (USA)

seeing red .... tape

2006-10-10T04:31:00.000-07:00

Today saw the start of the registration process. It won't be easy as the frame sat in the desert for years and the Vin doesn't show up on the rego computers. I have written a letter to Canberra and I'll keep you posted.

zzzzzzzz

2006-10-10T03:16:00.000-07:00

...so after waiting a week for my cank, reed block and head I rang SIP and re-ordered (as they seemed to be waiting for the reed), cancelling the reed block and was told it would be posted that day. Next day I get an email (the usual one saying that postage will be much more than anticipated) and I reply saying "yes ok please go ahead with the order... I am in a hurry".
To back this up I rang that night (morning in Germany) and was told yes, it has been sent.
A week later I rang again and was assure the items were posted 8 days before.
A week later I rang and was told 'do you want to go ahead with the order?'
I am so frustrated as this is the finish line.

New wack a wheel squeeze

2006-10-04T23:40:00.000-07:00

Unfortunately my history of disappointment didn't let me down today when the postie arrived.
The rack (bought off ebay pictured on a 10 inch bike) turned out to be for an 8 inch spare wheel.
The rack fitted the scooter alright, and was just the delicate looking one I wanted..... so........
......

Sorted. Sometimes it's handy having a steelworking factory.
I could have put it back on ebay then started again but I'm not that kind of guy.

Also, by coincidence the scooter owned by the rack seller (ebay) had these strange mirrors(below). I had heard of the clamp things to go onto the VNA split headset, but when this pic arrived I decided to get them. I ordered them from scooterworks in the USA.
Now it is a matter of waiting for the crank and head.

I can't stand it anymore

2006-10-04T04:10:00.000-07:00

It's the 11th hour of this project and I'm waiting for engine parts. Tonight I couldn't wait anymore and made a 'placebo' engine so I could get the bloody thing off the stand and see what it feels like to sit on.
I welded some tube together in the appropriate places, attached an old front hub... and bingo ...off the stand.
... so I sat on it...

... bring on the new crank Mr Postman

reedy to roll

2006-10-03T01:57:00.000-07:00

ok the reeds are in, the glove box is in and I am now deciding whether it is naff to put the vapor enduro computer on the headset or down near the glovebox. I have a standard 2 inch round temp guage with a chrome holder, but (as the speedo will not be connected) I will also have to install a bicycle computer. I would then have to wire up lights in order to see the guages at night. If I decide for the vapor ( http://www.trailtech.net/vapor.htm ) on the headset I will do it right away and start with that. If I decide on a vapor for behind the legshield I will make do with the round gauge then buy a vapor later. Here's a computer mockup of what it may look like... (note the new glovebox)

Arguments for and against the headset mounting....

for - I built this scooter for a purpose, and on the headset i can easily see speed, temp, rpm, distence etc. (internal light)

against - It will look blatantly unoriginal

for - It is the VNA split headset, so I can get another in the future and get it back to oldy worldy.

for - I am getting to like the idea of having something unique. The scooter is made up of so many different parts anyway.

against - It could look ugly, but I don't think I'll really know until I do it. I will get one sooner or later so there's no harm in sitting it there to see how it looks.

reed and weep

2006-10-02T06:03:00.000-07:00

Today was one of those Santa days. First my glove box arrived, then my reed block. At 5pm (start of workday German time) I rang SIP and apparently the head and crank have been in transit for 5 days and are due this week.

I had to grind the glove box a fair bit to make it fit, but all was well in the end and I have painted it already.

I got straight into dremeling the cases as soon as I had the glove box painted. my first go on the dremel and I think I did alright. There could be another couple of hours of perfecting the inlet porting but I want to see how it goes with mild work done. The inlet has already been heavily dremeled, so it was already pretty smooth. I removed the rotary pad an opened the inlet to match the malossi reed block. The crank I ordered has some kind of 'special lip' (worb5) so probably reduces the need to heavily dremel out the case.

Great Racks drive me spare - they wheely do

2006-10-01T21:20:00.000-07:00

I just won an ebay auction for a rear 2-in-1 chrome rack. Buying one was on the agenda, so I've no doubt saved a few bob. Hopefully it will fit.

Also the glove box arrived today (scootrs) . It looks pretty crappy and will have to be cut and ground to fit properly. It was cheap and was bought so I didn't feel bad cutting holes for guages in a collectable GS one.

Still no word from SIP or Beedspeed on the engine parts. They seem to know when you are extremely desperate, and refuse to answer any emails for a week. I will ring them all tonight and see what's what.

DC Comics.... it's a bloody joke

2006-09-26T21:22:00.000-07:00

After carefully installing the loom and checking the schematic, I bought a DC horn (see diagram that came with the loom).
Looking at the schematic, I couldn't understand how the horn or tailight could get any current without the engine running. I rang Beedspeed last night and asked what the story was. Alan (who designed the loom) said "..no, that should be an AC horn. It was so long ago, I can't remember how they go, can you email me the diagram". I did and he replied with confirmation that it should read AC Horn. ... BLOODY GREAT!

I have altered the schematic to keep the horn DC and the brake light running off the battery. I feel safer in traffic at night knowing that if I stall I am not completely in the dark.

I also recieved an email from beedspeed stating that the reed block had been 'ordered in.'
24 hours before that I spoke to someone there and he said they were definitely in stock and would post immediately. ... BLOODY GREAT!

for love nor money - definitely not love of money

2006-09-26T04:50:00.000-07:00

I've just done the maths, and this scooter has cost me over 4000 australian dollars.
Given that it was a bit at a time and I can't save up, I have decided that at least half of this would have been converted to beer and pizza instead of lining the pockets of parts suppliers across this great globe.
Anyway, I have to accept that like any other peformance based motor vehicle enhancement, the final value of the vehicle never reaches the cost. My motor has cost me half of the total, so it had better go bloody fast when it's done.
My point is (apart from not to make rambling posts after beer and wine) This scooter has been/ is being built for my purposes, not for investment. The next one will be a classic restore. OK.

Now, just lately I have been busy preparing stuff for the big dremel fest. I have always assumed that the cases (worst case) or the clutch cover was warped because I had to hammer the cover until it pops into place. Tonights practice dremmeling along with the frustrating wait for my reed block and crank allowed me to remove some aluminium allowing the clutch cover to slip on nicely. One problem solved.

Tonight I have been on the phone with Germany and England trying to sort out my engine parts.
First I ordered a malossi reed manifold, a balanced long stroke crank and a deepened reprofiled head all from SIP scootershop in Germany.
Next I realised I needed a special Worb5(german) longstroke crank designed to allow better gas flow with a reed valve and emailed SIP immediately asking to change it.
I got no reply for nearly a week, so rang them last night. Firstly I found out that the reed block was out of stock and was over a week away (before postage). I also found out that they were confused by my order and asked me to ring back tomorrow when the person responsible would be in.
Next I rang Beedspeed in England and ordered the reed block right away.
Tonight I rang SIP in Germany and changed the order to what I wanted. Hopefully I am on the dremel by Saturday. Yeehar.

switched to a better headspace

2006-09-19T04:24:00.000-07:00

Progressed a bit tonight with the headset switches wired up, the cable inners in and sorted (for now) and the starter switch added under the headset.

still to do on body (not thinking about the engine for now)

attach brake pedal and wire brake light switch-done
get thick red wire and make a connector for relay to starter motor - mostly done
find a bolt to use as a pinch bolt for headset - must be allen key and I think imperial 3/8
find bolts and nuts to use for levers - done
find fuel tap lever and install tank - done
bolt seat on - need 30X7mm bolts (X5)
find large cable end nipple for front brake lever end - done
charge battery, get multimeter back off Fraser and test electrics- all good except regulator doesn't work-get regulator
Install under seat kill switch, or tape up wires.
find bulbs - headlight, tailight, brake.
screw on the rear sebac shock
find small hook for joining stand spring to frame
get a horn and fit
get tank gasket
fit legshield glovebox, remove and paint
make glovebox fitted crashbar
get mirror suitable for going on crashbar

ENGINE TO DO

change out flywheel bearing and seal-done
dremel out rotary pad
dremel out inlet to match malossi reed block
insert nipple for vacuum fuel pump
install crank.
install deepened head and test squish and clearances.
change over clutch corks (new ones soaking already).
Lap the surfaces of the malossi reed kit. (get lapping compound).

THE GOOD NEWS OR THE BAD NEWS?

2006-09-17T02:22:00.000-07:00

WE'LL START WITH THE BAD
I swapped out the motors yesterday for 2 reasons. One, to make sure the red rocket didn't end up in the back of the workshop in bits. secondly to give me the time to make any adjustments necessary prior to installing into the GL.

Today I stripped the engine and found...

1. the rotary pad is stuffed. The inlet porting was so extreme there is a matter of millimeters left, and that is scored badly.. because..
2. the crank was out of true. remembering the bashing that took place as we tried to get it in and the case halves together, as well as the transport from sydney I am not surprised.
3. I am going to have to go with a reed setup. There are many arguments for and against jb weld repair. I guess once I go reed I can't go back. One advantage should be improved fuel economy. I dream of getting the same economy as the rest of you.
4. The spending spree has a long way to go. I thought it was finished when I got the rims and tyres the other day.
5. the clutch showed no signs of damage after approx 2000km and the corks don't seem burnt much. I have been leaking oil from a few spots so the clutch has been under oiled for about 6-700kms.

ACTION REQUIRED
My mind is made up. I am installing a balanced long stroke crank, a custom head machined to not require a 1.5mm base gasket (the stroke is increased by 3mm stock). As far as I can tell, the use of a deepened head rather than a base gasket keeps the torque lower in the rev range and higher.
I am also installing a malossi reed block kit. I have no intention of racing around, nor trying for speeds of over 115kmh, so I have decided to go for a combination of fuel economy low end torque and, of course, the ability to surprise people with unexpected zip from a fat bastard on a little old vespa.
The rotary pad has been decimated by someone dremmelling out the inlet port (180 degrees I'm told) What remains of it has been scored by something (perhaps a result of the unbalanced crank).

So the shopping list has been made and now I go back to the body...

THE GOOD NEWS

Small details are each taking quite a bit of time. For example, getting the front brake cable to work on a PK drum at one end and a VNA handlebar at the other.
Missing spring for he cowl clip. Also the vna side panel doesn't quite clip on right.
I suppose the good news is that I was rummaging for a fuel tap lever I know I have somewhere when I stumbled across a cowl hook spring, a chrome bag hook (ordered for some reason in the past) a front brake cable that I was able to use, the missing washer for the fork top and some electrical connectors.

I have attached the fender and fork, now that I have the cables through.

oily morning puddle's got me sumped

2006-09-14T16:32:00.000-07:00

The fact that this morning's oil puddle was bigger and cleaner than usual just after I topped up the gear oil, may indicate that the leak is from a mid level part of the engine, such as..

1) the gear changer (hope so)
2) under the flywheel (there was a bit of oil under there last time I looked, but didn't look like it was coming from the actual seal.
3) clutch cover. (has threads stripped on one of the bolts. I last did it up with some gasket goo 2000 km's ago.
4) rear hub.

I wonder if it is possible to put talc on the motor (or something) to see where the source is. Once the scooter starts up the oil from leaks blows all over the place causing mass hysteria (well, difficulty tracing leak at least).

the screaming Jets

2006-09-14T05:45:00.000-07:00

Getting ready to do some more jetting.
I haven't got the CH temperature above 230 while commuting, and it feels like the low end is getting richer. I will check whether the screws are working their way out (air and idle) or whether the air filter is getting clogged with 2t oil from the excessive blowback.
I have pretty much ignored the main jet for the last month as I have only been commuting, but I will ...
1) clean out the filter pod and see how the bike runs tomorrow.
2) count out the turns on the air and idle screws and check they are staying the same after a week.
3) put in a smaller main jet and see if there's a performance increase.
4) put the timing back to 18 BTDC and check with light.
5) change the needle to a leaner taper (3/8 throttle- WOT)

results...
1) I cleaned out the foam air filter pod with soapy water and lightly oiled it with filter oil. I forgot I did this and when I started the scooter up this morning I thought I had a jammed throttle. It ran like a dream al the way to work (apart from the headlight falling out and hanging like a horror movie eyeball). I guess that cancels 2,4 and 5. I still need to sort out the main jet.

regulatory body

2006-09-14T04:41:00.000-07:00

Here's where I put the regulator. I welded a strip of 25X3 flat steel to the battery tray and welded some bolts onto it for the reg to go onto. It may be a squeeze to ge the reg onto the bolts but we will see. If necessary I can slot the reg case on the left hole. I also welded a bit of flat bar sticking up to the left of where the reg goes for the attachment of the starter relay and any other bits and bobs.

I'm gonna walk down to .. 'ave a new electric

2006-09-11T20:28:00.000-07:00

The puns are getting worse. Bad gags Loom-in.
So far I have the loom in place, have routed the cables through to the battery side, routed the tail-light cables and installed the tail-light (vietnamese GS copy). I think the tailight may have been a changeover one for a px because it sits flat and leaves a little gap at the top. I ground it which improved it a bit.
Electrics worries are as follows...
1) does my lighting/charging regulator work (got it in a box with some other stuff)?
2) Where to put the starter relay. The loom came with a cable that won't reach across the scooter from the battery side to the starter.
3) There is a cable missing from the loom - battery to regulator - no biggy.
4) Front headlight - the VNA headset is small and the replacement glass is plastic. I'd like to get a halogen in there, but am worried that even a normal 12V globe will melt the plastic.
5) Where to put a switch near the seat?
6) Do I put in a key ignition somewhere?

free range night - battery chicken no more

2006-09-11T05:10:00.000-07:00

I was a bit chicken to deal with the battery, so tonight was a breakthrough. My battery tray arrived the other day from Lambretta Parts in America . I didn't check with anyone as to the best position for it in the glove box cowl, so I just took a punt.

...also I have managed to get the loom in, painted the cowls, front fender and headset with the colour matched paint and sent my new chrome rime (scootrs) to the scootermarket for some sava mc18 tyres.

..I have also attached some blingy bits also from scootrs. The cowl trim was fairly good, but the screws that came with the fender trim were made of cheese which didn't go together well with the badly tapped holes. Now I need to buy an easy-out and some decent m5 bolts. There's simply too much to do without having to mess around fixing dodgy bling. The shiny bits do help to detract from the lumpy bog-work.

Tanks for the Memories

2006-09-11T04:51:00.000-07:00

got hold of a GS tank today. It holds 9 litres rather than the stock 7.5, meaning my range will be back up to 120 km rather than the 103 I am currently getting.
If I get around to installing a reed manifold maybe one day I will have a decent range.

Much to-do about nothing

2006-08-22T03:04:00.000-07:00

the list of things to do during the motor changeover...

change clauss mounts back to stock
splitcases
change flyside bearing and seal
tap a hole for vacuum fuel pump
check clutch bearing
have crank trued

pump up the jam - but not the fuel

2006-08-22T02:08:00.000-07:00

I have been asking around whether the vacuum pulse in the inlet manifold of a sidedraught carb (rotary induction) will suffice to run a small fuel pump...... no-one gave me a straigh answer so I thought I'd give it a go.

Update - I have just tapped a 1/4" line from the base of my inlet manifold (rotary pwk clone) and attached a fuel pump for testing.
I held one end in a bottle of fuel and the other over a bowl. The rise from the level on the bottle to the outlet was about 6" and I kept he hose lengths to a minimum. vacuum line length 8".
Nothing happened until I raised the bottle and removed air from the lines then....
At about 1/4 throttle it pumped fuel. Easily enough for 1/4 throttle riding.
AT 5000 rpm it was still pumping.
It slowed down at 6-7000
At flat stick it stopped pumping (8-9000rpm)

Currently I would call the project a failure, but I will do some more testing outside (I feel quite sick right now) and with the pump hooked up to the tank.

I am giving the motor a once over with the cases open when I put in in the project GL later this year, so I will tap the case then (remind me someone).

THe good thing is I achieved soemthing with the jetting.
Basically I oiled the air filted, restricting air and making it too rich. I then leaned out everything except the main jet.
132 main
JJH needle second position
38 idle
screw 2 turns out

I also rode aroud with a spare fuel bottle waiting to see at what stage the carb began starving for fuel. I was very please with getting 7 litres used up with no running out (I chickened out in the end) leaving only half a litre in the tank. Gold.

By the way I only got 100km from those 7 litres, but things might improve with a leaner mixture.

Fender Off With a Grinder

2006-08-16T16:02:00.000-07:00

Well I lined up the fender as best as I could.
I had to sand the aluminium off the fork, bash out the fender a bit and drill new holes. All in all I think it looks straight.
I will compare my pics to some 'real' ones today and see if I have gone completely wrong.

Jetting all day, Jetting all night

2006-08-15T21:39:00.000-07:00

After spending a couple of hours fiddling with the jets in the OKO 28mm carb, I cleaned up and wandered down to the forum to see the band 'Jet'.
My friend Steve plays keyboard in all of their shows (and on the record) , so needless to say there was some boozing to do. So busy was i at Jet that I forgot what jets I had put in earlier in the evening.
Fortunately when searching the internationalscooterbbs for jetting info, I found a post i had made before going out indicating the jetting changes I had made.
132 main
42 pilot
air screw 2.25 out
GKB needle (randall at Scootrs says it is an OEM needle, but I will have to research exactly what that means)

NOW! My worry is fuel starvation and I am deciding If How and When to install a vacuum fuel pump. These work by tapping into the pulsating crankcase pressure, normally involving drilling into the engine cases. Because of metal filings, this should always be done with the engine in bits. (a drag).
The online scooter community seems to be lacking in info as to whether the vacuum line can be taken from the inlet manifold instead of the cases (on a rotary valve motor). A go-kart guy gave me a definite NO, but some online say it is possible. I know it is cool in the reedblock on a reedvalve setup, so maybe people are getting them confused.
I will definitely tap the manifold and do some testing with fuel cans at different rev ranges. The pump is on order.

~ look at the brass fuel line nipple sticking up to the left of the pink hose. The base of that is at the same height relative to the fuel tank as a stock carb. If this can be swapped for an l-shaped fitting, the hose wouldn't have to rise up and down onto the nipple, creating the same fuel flow as for a stock setup. The pump setup allows for long range tanks, auxiliiary tanks etc, but at least if the flow can use all the main tank, I am not in danger of fuel starvation at 1/3 tank under load which could lead to leaning off and seizing.

Making a meal of the High Carb- Hide-Rate

2006-08-12T06:03:00.000-07:00

THIS POST IS ONE I WILL UPDATE AS MY JETTING CHANGES.
It starts when the carb is installed on the px200 (LML T5) and is currently on the GL PX 221 with Malossi reed block............ go to bottom for current setup

Ok, now I have installed the PWK Knockoff carby, and I am trying to jet it correctly.
The throttle cable went in easily enough. I already had a japanese style throttle cable anyhow (due to the shop not having a vespa one when mine broke). The choke adaptor was a bit dodgy but I got it done anyhoo.
It's the jetting that will be hard.
I started with the following:
130 main
stock (dunno) pilot jet
jjh needle in middle clip
Screw 2 out

At first I thought it ws all a bit lean as it was flat at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle.
I changed over to a 5th clip(richer) and a 136 main.
On the way home from doing that I felt that it was too rich -too lean-too rich
Tomorrow is plug chop day. I will be tearing up the freeway- a bit at a time.
First stop is needle back to middle notch, 132 main, 2 out.

They sent me 15 different main jets, two idle jets and two needles. I think the main jet will be the easiest to sort out... but... I have been studying up on the balance between all the needle elements and other jets, and have some info. Here's a collection of stuff taken from various locations...

It has been a while, but without banging on too much, I have experimented with a fair bit of jetting. After touring Tasmania 2-up I rebuilt the gearbox and since found the jetting to be boggy. I cleaned out the air-filte (foam pod) and changed the jetting from.
LJH 2nd clip

to.

JJK (leaner taper and leaner diameter) middle clip.

It runs great and for the first time has no bog down at 1/4 throttle.
The national rally (over 1000 km's ) is this weekend so I will keep a careful eye on the leanness (CHT guage) and be prepared to pop a richer taper or main jet in before leaving.

I have the following needles in order from rich to lean....
JJF (richer diameter 1/4) middle taper
LJH (middle diameter 1/4) rich taper1/4-3/4
JJH (middle diameter 1/4) middle taper
GJH (middle diameter1/4) Lean taper
JJK (lean diameter 1/4) middle taper - middle clip position - test1a
-2nd clip (leaner) test 2a(JL pipe)

test 1a - 15 km later the thing has great pickup through the rev range. A bit vibrationny at around 5500-75oo rpm. Still to hwy test to see what the main does. (haven't changed it but something seems to have richened everything... maybe the old flyside seal or the exhaust stub were leaking. In fact I know they were).

Now, things have changed again...
I have re-installed the infamous SIP performance (jl I believe) pipe.
It pretty much goes like a rocket without any carb changes which is good.
As these push the useable power higher in the rev range, I will have to now focus on getting the carb dialled in perfectly in the 0-1/3 throttle range. This is because the engine simply wants to get past the low revs as quickly as possible when taking off, and any delay can cause frustration.

Anyway....
TEST 2a - I have dropped the needle (raised the clip) to try and sharpen up the response in the 1/4 throttle area. The bogging/ loss of power in this position could well be due to a too lean clip position, so I am prepared to humbly go the other way later today .

en-guard..... or... guard-on

2006-08-10T05:14:00.000-07:00

My GS front guard arrived today. Hand made in Vietnam, it isn't too bad and should come up ok with some sanding and a skim coat. The big challenge will be shaping the PK fork aedn beating the fender to make it sit right. The PK fork was designed to fit a big squared off fender like a PX.

Partly finished event

2006-08-10T05:00:00.000-07:00

Here's pics of the cowl repair...

A loop hole in the Santa Clause

2006-08-10T04:41:00.000-07:00

It was an August Christmas in Collingwood today.
Today I took reciept of

Keihin PWK copy carb
air filter pod
Repro GS front guard
rear shock mount
little bits and pieces

Also the panelbeater I left my old VNA cowls at wouldn't budge from $500 just to beat them straight and add some filler. That is without fixing the broken fins. I went and got them back, welded some bits of steel where the fins were, and welded up a couple of cracks.
They will do for now. I'd miss the added versatility of 'less than precious' cowls. Not just handy for pushing over to change the tyre....

forking marvelous

2006-08-09T02:38:00.000-07:00

My new hero NORM has come up trumps with the PK fork, and finally the project feels like it is moving forward.
Norm has an engineering plant called Saville Engineering, is a Harley Davidson enthusiast and took on the job of making the changes to the pk fork. He went above and beyond to sort out the issues I had, and understood my financial woes.
Putting together the front end brought up a few more minor jobs...

get lever bolts
find alternative front brake cable
find alternative to speedo cable
investigate seat latch
change steering lock
start thinking about wiring
alter light switches
battery cage

gettin' it together

2006-08-08T05:52:00.000-07:00

It may not be much, but I have actually attached something to teh GL frame.
I have screwed on the centre mat (scootrs - Vietnam). Sounds simple but was quite tricky. The screws supplied were absolute trash and stripped almost immediately. I ended up re-using the 43 year old rusty screws, which held together just fine. Stretching the mat while trying to line up the metal rail and then screwing in a screw was quite difficult .
So there you go, I have started assembly. Yay.

By the way, I have been advised to NOT use the VNA front guard with a ten inch wheel, as it is too small and may lock up under full suspension. I have ordered a GS160 front fender from scootrs in Vietnam. even they admit it is not perfect, but should keep with the rounded look I am going for and still look better than the beat up vna one .
this is a picture of the fron fender from the scootrs website

Let's workshop this ...

2006-08-02T03:19:00.000-07:00

here's the workshop.
This space has been an underground bar, a poker club, an art studio, storage, my home, and now it has become my scooter workshop.

letspray

2006-08-02T02:31:00.000-07:00

today the VNA side cowls went to the panel shop for a quote.
I don't know if it got through that I wanted the holes bogged, and a cheap job straigtening up the dings.
On the way back I got the frame (original colour) colour matched, so tonight i primed the headset and handlebars, as well as touching up parts of the frame that were in danger of rusting up. I want to keep the original patina which is not in too bad condition.

dirties scooter gallery - recent acquisitions

2006-07-26T22:44:00.000-07:00

Lately I have taken delivery of the following...

GS seat - repro from australian scooter parts (vietnam)

Correct wiring loom from Beedspeed (they sent me the wrong one)

Malossi stickers (free by way of apology for sending wrong loom)

Borrowed gl fork so I can duplicate the fittings and threads on the pk fork (thanks stu).

4 case gaskets (sick of having to buy a whole set just for one gasket)

brake pedal . ebay from Perth. I had to grind the original off.

cowl rubber

levers

house (yet to build a workshop there but when the landlord kicks me out of the factory, my projects will no longer have to suffer.

ALL THIS LEAVES JUST THE FOLLOWING TO ACQUIRE

my mind's a blank so I'll get back to this one
I know.. 2 wheels and tyres
battery holder
paint

....AND THIS TO DO

adapt the top of the pk fork
get the paint matched
prime and paint the headset
fix the cowls as best as possible and prime and paint them
fit the cables in and the wiring loom
attatch a battery and regulator
adapt the light switch to the plans from beedspeed for PX conversion.
clean and test the fuel tank
fit the seat

Low carbs = low energy

2006-07-26T22:10:00.000-07:00

I had a few beers after the dyno day, got home, logged on and ordered a new carby.
A 30mm keihin PWK clone from scootrs
Two reasons...
1) I need one sooner or later to match the needs of the kit and pipe
2) I want one

When the time comes to transplant into the GL frame, I will be losing autolube and starting to premix my 2-stroke oil. I am very dubious about the quality of my particular stock carby, so I thought what the hell, let's get it on. Jive talk aside, I want to get the engine setup as well as possible before the switch so I can focus on the inevitable electrical, braking and bodywork nightmares.

My ear can't tune it... but a DYNO MIGHT

2006-07-26T21:48:00.000-07:00

I sort of gave up on dialling in the carb properly. I settled on a 130 main, stock everything else. and a slightly lean idle.
Last weekend I went along with some clubmates to a motorclycle mechanics to put their scooters on a dynomometer machine. This gave them a printed graph of the power their engines produce at different rev ranges.
In the end i did put my scooter up for one run. While I manage to achieve .2 hp more than Pauls pinasco packing PX, the usefulness of the HP at 800 rpm is only really going to benefit me when I am really showing off, or trying for 120+kmh.
Considering the engine is destined for a 'sleeper' '64 GL frame, I'd consider lowering the powerband somehow to increase torque and improve two up riding.
Having a figure put on your motor has an interesting psychological effect, causing me to go home and re-install my fancy tuned pipe (SIP performance). I had this on the stock motor, but it really was for unleashing high rev power so I put it aside until the malossi kit was broken in. 1000km in, and she's ready to go.

GOOD GOD WHAT A RUSH.
The pipe unleashed a monster. I rode home thinking 'there goes another bunch of torque..boo hoo' and got it up to where I would normally change gear. There was a change of tone, almost a crisp cracking sound, and the thing just took off like a bedford van MRT has just installed Nitreous oxide into while being locked in an enemy garage... I digress..
WOW not necessarily my goal to make the powerband stronger at 7500 rpm, but definitely a result. I just want to get back on the dyno. It is kind of like a weigh-in for fat folk on crash diets.

On the Dyno graph you will see a blue line (Paul's PInasco 225) and a red line (my malossi 210 - pre exhaust pipe).
Notice at the handy rev range of 4000-6000 he has about 1.6HP more.

JET THE HELL OUTA HERE

2006-06-30T06:22:00.000-07:00

Dialling in a carb on a modified engine is shit. A deeper level of understanding of the functions of each carb part would help, but I think a bit of knowledge and a lot of trial and error will provide eventual results.
I have started to document different setups, emailing the list to myself and updating with each trial.
The current setup is - px200 malossi 210 kit, 185 inlet timing, ignition 18degrees Before top Dead Centre, sito plus exhaust, si24/24e dellorto carb, 450 km's into break in.

The factors are
- idle jet - marked with 2 numbers. The second number divided by the first gives a number. The smaller that number, the richer the idle mix. This, along with the air mixture screw, affects running up to half throttle, and a little bit higher in the throttle range.

- idle air mixture screw - Depending who you ask, should be between half a turn out and three turns out. This should essentially be a way of fine tuning the idle jet. Turning in makes leaner, out makes richer.

- MAIN JET STACK- consists of three things joined together. Supposedly effects a quarter throttle( a bit) through to full throttle.
- air corrector - (stock 160) measures amount of air allowed into the mix. Number represents hole size, so bigger number = more air = leaner mix

- mixer tube, aka jet holder or mixer.- still unsure about this one. I know it comes in a BE3(stock) and BE4. The holes are smaller and in less amount on the BE4, and my current take is that it is a richer thing in the end. research has shown people have used smaller main jets when using the BE4. There is more to it than that and I intend finding out.

- Main jet - simply the bit on the end of the stack that has a hole in it. The marked number is the hole size in metric (a stock 116 main jet has a hole of 1.16mm)

I will copy and paste my experiments and the results here.....

128 - be3 - 140 air - 55/160 - 2 turns out temp-200-220 around town 320 flat stick * top speed 103

125 - be4 - 140 air - 55/160 - 1.5 turns out temp- 25 around town - 340 flat stick

125 - be3 - 140 air - 55/160 - 1 turns out - loves it great accelleration - temp 280 around town to scary to open out (at least 350)

130 - be4 - 140 air -48/160 - 1.5 turns out (lean off the low rev circuit, and keep the mid kinda lean, but richen the top) too lean at full revs 220-250 temps around burbs

YET to try

128 - be4 - 140 air -48/160 - 1.5 turns out (lean off the low rev circuit, and richen the mid range and top)

125 - be4 - 160 air -48/160 - 1.5 turns out (lean off the low rev circuit, and richen the mid range and top)

128 - be3 - 120 air - 55/160 - 1.5 turns out (restrict air at the top end to richen the midrange and top)

current - 130 - be3 - 160 air - 48/160 - 1 turns out -seems to be unable to get lean symptoms at idle and low revs. Perhaps is too lean and I can't tell. Fanging up and down easey street in 2nd and 3rd got the temp to 240 . Seems to have a good power band after half throttle . Low throttle is a bit boggy/ hesitant

below is a page from the SIP scooter sit ein Germany:

No theramin, no good vibrations

2006-06-30T06:11:00.000-07:00

Due to a lack of prior experience, I can't tell whether the excessive vibrations on the new motor are due to the 'clauss studios urethane engine mounts' or due to a wonky crankshaft.
The cheapest (and most tortuous) way of finding out would be to pull the motor out and put the rubber ones back in. This will be hellish.

well fork me, it fits

2006-06-27T23:23:00.000-07:00

Well I'm not out of the woods yet, but the PK50XL2 fork arrived from Germany today, intact and with hub, brake, speedo cable etc.
It seems to fit with the bearing races and threads, etc. It is just a matter of working out how to get the headset and the front fender on.
If I have to change the top of the fork to fit the VNA headset, then fine. If I have to change the fork top in a DIFFERENT way for a VNA (which I have ready) to a GL (which I will put on one day in the future) then I will get a GL one to begin with.
The fender I will simply abuse until it fits, then bog it up until it is relatively smooth.

At last I feel as if I am getting somewhere. The wiring is ordered, and the seat is paid for.
I will continue to cut and polish the frame as is, then bog up the VNA cowls. The big job is going to be adapting these forks.

wire people so unkind

2006-06-27T05:20:00.000-07:00

Wiring time for the GL, and I don't really know where to start.
A quick glance on the Beedspeed website shows a selection of custom looms designed for PX motors in oldy scooters.
I'll start with a shopping list... (in scottish pounds from the beedspeed website)
custom loom -29.99 pounds

A Starter Relay - 14.99

An electric start button mounting on the handle bars, we have one available separately part number 24 613 5020 in the Autos starter motors section - 3.99

safety switch that inserts into the clutch outer cable - 4.99 (front brake switch)

A Battery Charging Type Voltage Regulator Box - 26.99

Beedspeed conversion light switch ( or a DC Rally switch ) - 19.99

DC type brake light switch. - 3.99

VEPSA CUSTOM WIRING HARNESS UNIVERSAL

RALLY, SUPER, SPRINT, GL, GT, SPORTIQUE, GS, 152 L2 FITTED WITH PX ELECTRIC START ENGINE.

SUPPLIED WITH DIAGRAM FOR FOUR ALTERNATIVE LIGHT SWITCHES AND IGNITION CUT OUT TYPES.

You will also require the following:

An electric start button mounting on the handle bars, we have one available separately part number 24 613 5020 in the Autos starter motors section - One 15mm hole will have to be drilled.

You will also require a safety switch that inserts into the clutch outer cable, this makes it not possible to start the engine if the scooter is in gear without first pulling in the clutch. We have this part available separately listed as a front brake light switch in the Vespa Light Switches section.

A Starter Relay - This can be found in the Vespa Light Switches Section.

A Battery Charging Type Voltage Regulator Box. See Vespa electrical section.

A 12 V Battery. We recommend the CB9-B or similar, this fits correctly in the majority of vespa battery trays, and has plenty of power to turn over the motor. Please check the battery dimensions in our battery section, against the size of your battery tray.

Finally if your scooter was a none battery type, then you will require the Beedspeed conversion light switch ( or a DC Rally switch ) and a DC type brake light switch. These are available separately in the Vespa Switches section.

a big fork'n gamble

2006-06-18T04:52:00.000-07:00

I have bought a fork from Germany (ebay). It is from a PK 50 XL2.
In order to have a sixties scooter that doesn't dive under braking, as well as the ability to add a disc brake, it is common to add a pk fork. 'They' say that to do an 8 inch wheel to 10 inch wheel conversion you need a pk125 fork, but NOT a pk50 fork. I need a 10" to 10" conversion, which (apparently) needs a PKXL 2 fork.
I have taken a punt on the 50 being the same as the 125 in this model. It should arrive sometime next week, so I'll let you know.
Oh, and just to rub salt on the wound, SIP scootershop has just put PK conversion forks back on their catalogue. At least there is a (albeit expensive) solution available if I have the wrong part.

torturous break in period

2006-06-18T04:02:00.000-07:00

The 210 is running great in the T5 frame.
I am running with a 128 main jet, and it feels a little rich.
When i stopped for my first plug chop the Cylinder Head Temperature stopped working. I am fairly reliant on this while fiddling with carb settings, as it gives me an idea what causes a lean mix, and what doesn't.
I kept the carb settings for the first 200km's until a replacement guage arrived. Fortunately the scoot was running at a steady 200 fahrenheit around town.

The general consensus for breaking in technique is to 'just ride it.... but avoid long spells at the same speed'. So that's what I'm doing. Reving it up good, but not full fang in fourth.
More later on the break in.
I have added a pic of dyno results. I found a site with dyno comparisons using different performance exhausts. I superimposed them all together to give a rough idea of the qualities of some exhausts. I currently run a sito plus (blue line) and have a SIP performance ready to go on once it is broken in. I had the sip on my stock engine for a while and although it wasn't the best on stock, it did allow the engine to rev as much as it wanted. It's going to be very interesting to see what happens when it is combined withe the malossi kit.

engine swap one day, cases open again the next...

2006-06-08T04:05:00.000-07:00

The process of swapping my stock motor for the malossi 210 kitted motor was a fun one. It was pretty straight forward but for a few huccups. I have just split the cases again (in the bike) to replace the kickstart quadrant and spring....

I have decided to describe this process with copies of my posts on various forums.......

International scooterBBS - June 5

After many months of getting bits and bobs together I have finally put the malossi 210 in my LMLT5 frame... and it runs!
It is my first time and I am pretty pleased.
Just one question......
The splines for the kickstart are about 25 degrees too low. Either I put the thing together wrong when I split the cases last month, or it is the wrong gear inside. The engine was originally put together by someone about 6 years ago.

If I have put it together wrong is it ok to adapt the kickstart to sit in the right spot?

If it is the wrong internal, is that ok, and how do I find out whick model kickstart to get? (this would be ironic as I have bought a scootrs kickstart lever to look oldy worldy but fit a PX motor).

This motor is going in my GL frame once it is run in and dialed in nicely.

derek
LML-t5 .. p200e motor...sito plus 22 main
VNA basket case on jig - going to be a pot stand.
210 motor on bench... not any more

Are you missing the rubber kickstart buffer on the inside of the case?

no, that was in there.
If the bike is on the stand and I climb on a chair, The kickstart works perfectly normally, only too far down. I guess I could put the bike over a pot hole to start it.

derek

does your kick start fit like this one does?
http://www.scootermd.com/images/scoots/pser(11).jpg

{cut and paste the whole link above as the ()'s cause the link to go all screwy}

if so you have the wrong kickstart pedal and quadrant combo. The one above is a rally pedal on a P-series quadrant.

later,

Tim

good work Tim. Mine goes the other way (down) so I am hoping I have a rally quadrant in there. Hopefully this won't do any harm to the p-motor.
All I have to do is get a rally kicker, yes?

cheers
derek

Conclusion,
The engine was originally put together to go into a GS frame, so a rally quadrant was inserted.
Thanks for your help folks

derek

Melbourne Vespa Connection - 9pm June 8

"well, after a disappointing first day with the malossi kit (the kickstart quatrant was bent causing it to not return) I bit the bullet and spent the afternoon splitting the cases (p200) to replace the kickstart gizzards.

I haven't been out on the road yet but it starts and goes through the gears.

once it was started last night and this morning, it went really well. Only issue is the vibrations which are probably due to the clauss studios hardened engine mounts and the mount bolt done up too tight."

suppliers

2006-05-30T23:26:00.000-07:00

Here I will list the different suppliers used along with an appraisal of their service/ prices.

GPS Imports - my local scooter shop. They are a pretty major importer of vespa parts for Melbourne and I prefer dealing locally with actual people wherever possible.
I have used them for numerous parts, including all my electrics. My rear sebac shock, seals, nuts and bolts, gaskets, cables etc. Not only is the immediacy of supply (if in stock) handy, but the ability to discuss something helps make sure you have all the bits required for a task.

SIP scootershop - Germany - online. Many in Australia have horror stories about their freight charges. They are German (efficient) so have always used very pricey freight. Recently they have started offering a cheaper alternative, making soem of their products now within reach.
I bought my performance exhaust from them. I would buy loads more from them if only their minimum order was lower.

BEEDSPEED - england. A bit of a favourite at the moment due to fair freight, good pricing and extremely fast postage. When you buy from them remember to take around 17% OFF the prices as they include their local tax in pricing.
I used them for my front sebac shock, a front hub, strengthened cosa clutch, etc.

SCOOTERWORKS - USA. Used them for carb jets last year and they were helpful and very fast on the postage.

SCOOTRS - Vietnam. Great for superficial things, but I wouldn't recommend structural stuff.
Very happy with my chrome, oldy style kickstart. Very disappointed with my saddle seat. Very happy with the replacement floor for the VNA. The GS style tailight was cheap and will be handy. The calendars are a great addition to the workshop.

AUSTRALIAN SCOOTER PARTS - Sydney (VIETNAMES IMPORTERS). Good blokes. Not sure about the parts as yet, but they are new and their range is growing all the time. I have ordered a GS repro seat from them so we will see.

SCOMO - I don't know if I have bought from them but all the Americans (and oner or two Aussies) seem to have a crush on their sales person 'Chelsea'. She is often on the international scooter bbs giving advice. During my headset crisis she was very helpful one on one, and I really wish I had got the NOS (New Old Stock) from her in the first place. Lesson learned.

EBAY - Some regular scooterparts ebayers such as sydneyscooterparts, and westcoastvespa are worth contacting when you need a part or two. Sydneyscooterparts sorted me out with a few bits and bobs that weren't listed for a reasonable price.

SCOOTER BBS and SCOOTERBOYWORLD spam forums - USA and UK respectively. Each are separate forums to their general ones. I have had mixed success with these. I have found a lot of people have offered to send parts, which is very kind. Unfortunately by the time you realise they may not come through with the goods they could have been delivered by Beedspeed.

More later....

engine update

2006-05-24T05:12:00.000-07:00

Ok, now the carb's in, the clutch is in, electrics, flywheel, all set to go.....
... and the clutch on the LML (daily rider) comes loose and rattles itself to pieces. In order to get to work everyday, I had to steal the clutch from the bench 210 and put it in the LML.
Luck I did because it was not put together correctly (my fault) and the corks weren't soaked correctly (my fault) and there is a 4 plate kit in it which seems to be chewing on the brass bush.
Hopefully It will hold out until the big change over. The good thing is now I know a little more about clutches.
For the malossi (210) engine, I took the opportunity to order a cosa clutch from beedspeed. It arrived in Australia from England in less than a week.
The corks are now soaking in oil, and will go in any day now. Australia play Greece in the soccer tomorrow night at the MCG and I am going, so It can't be tomorrow.

I am starting to wonder if it might be less bother to switch motors straight off, rather than fix the motor to the bench, attempt to join an exhaust, make a way of feeding fuel, changing gears, operating the clutch and trying to kickstart it on the bench.
We shall see.....
TBC

MY GOD IT'S A QUAD

2006-05-24T04:34:00.000-07:00

There's a new kid on the block.... the '64 GL frame.
After much procrastination over repairing the rust in the VNA, I have decided to change my plans. I have gotten hold of a basic GL frame that doesn't have any serious rust and is straight. The GL had a 10 inch wheel, so my life will be a little easier using the px motor.
( what looks like rust is actually red clay).
.. so here's the new plan...

1) I treat the frame for rust underneath, and cut+polish the white finish. My favourite vespa finish is original white that shows that the bike has had a full and active service. As you can imagine, I am very happy with this one, as it is just that.

2) I do my best to fix up the old VNA side cowls, and make them fit the GL frame (see pic).

3) I use the VNA headset. Firstly a GL one will be hard to get, and will upset me if I have to drill holes for extra switches, and cut it for hydraulics. Secondly the VNA is ideal as it is a pressed steel two part unit, allowing access for extra wiring. I can even cut bits out if necessary for guages, etc. (probably won't 'tho as the bike is to look as stock as possible ).

4) Same plans apply as far as forks go. The only difference will be I need a PK XLII fork instead of a PK XL. This topic is always a little hazy, so there's more research to do on that one. The forks then get the appropriate sebac shock and a PX200 disc brake kit.

When this is all done, the engine pops out of the LMLT5 and into the 'DIRTY ROCKET'

As time goes on I will be ebaying for the correct headset, forks, cowls, etc. to allow a full restore in the future.

open sesame

2006-05-12T00:56:00.000-07:00

a few weeks ago I got a case of beer, a few pizzas, and some new seals/ gaskets and had the lads from the Melbourne Vespa Connection around for a case splitting ceremony.
In attendance were Jeremy, Paul, Stuart and myself (dirty derek)
I had been sorely tempted to just fire up this baby and see what happened, but a bit of reason and a lot of curiosity got the better of me and we pulled it to bits.

Firstly the head came off.. no big deal but it was freshly machined by the look of it and seemed nice.
Next the barrel... ooh boy such a shiny new piston in there.
As we went to remove the circlips from the gudgeon pin (holding the piston on) I found one wasn't completely on. From this point I truly realise that the motor, while being complete and a great find, is now reliant on ME to make it safe and prepared for active duty.

With the combined experiences of the four of us we split the cases, replaced the seals (in case they had deteriorated in the years the engine has sat without being used since rebuild) and put it back together.

In the weeks following I have added the new stator plate, added a new rear hub, put the cdi/coil on and filled it with oil.

Apparently the starter motor I ordered from a gut in england was sent back by customs, so after a bit of negotiation I cut my losses, got most of my money back and bought one from a guy in Sydney.
That arrived promptly and I bolted it on.

The electrics produce a spark

Pablo (Brisbane) kindly sent me the correct oil pump pinion and cog, and I now I await one washer from the states before I can assemble the autolube pump, and put the carb on.

I have stripped the carb and replaced the float and needle.

One washer and I am away. My wife goes to Tasmania for a week, so I hope to burn the midnight oil and get this beast started by next week.

Once it is running I see no reason why I can't have it in the scooter for jetting the next day.

back to the motor and a change of plans

2006-05-12T00:47:00.000-07:00

The 210 is going in the LML t5 frame.

I had already decided to get the malossi engine going on the bench, then put it into my daily ride (see pictured).
This was mainly due to the huge difference in time it will take to do that and prepare the body.
Now that the headset disaster has unfolded, I will not only put it in, but get soem disc brakes on there aswell.

Enough about that for now... I must go back and catch you up on what's been happening with the motor.

200 bucks, 2 months wait and a box of shite to show for it

2006-05-12T00:30:00.000-07:00

finally my headset arrived today... bent and broken.
The speedo (100 US ) is bent where the cable goes in.
The handle bar is bent
the headset bottom os dinged.
None of this happened in transit, and I am waiting for a response to my annoyed email before deciding what to do next.

This signals the official shelving of the VNA side of the project, and the fast tracking of the 210 malossi engine.
More soon on that.

Ullo John, Got a new motah!

2006-04-03T23:23:00.000-07:00

I gots me a malossi 210 powerhouse of bench sitting.
Yes folks, the engine arrived. here's what I found

1) there's a new (stock) clutch inside.... good for now
2) there's no stator (an old 7 wire one with bits missing, but I'll class that as none). I have bought a new stator and cdi already.
3) no starter motor (onto one fro england at the moment)
4) there's a carby (si24/24e) jets inside are stock.
5) the hole in the case for the oil pump shaft to go through (from near the clutch up through to the carby) had bee threaded and plugged with a grub screw. I contacted the guy who built the motor, and he said "OH, I forgot about that. It was 9 years ago". Fair enough I say. It seems that it is reversible.
6) I scored an engine stand for free from the local scooter shop. (they were throwing it out. A sign o' the times one may say)
7) all seems well with the cases. There is meant to be a taff speed crank in there, new bearings and new seals. (well, 9 years ago). I have decided to leave the cases closed, slap everything on and get it started.

... Also there is a slight change of plan. I plan to do the following;

start the 210 motor on the bench
swap it over into my daily rider (LMLT5 p200)
get it running nicely. Mild tuned with plenty of torque and a reasonable top speed will do for now
meanwhile rebuild the top end of the p200 (from my daily rider)
when the 'dirty rocket' frame is ready switch the motors in my daily rider, and put the 210 in the dirty rocket.
Continue to tune it until it explodes.

The reasoning behind this is that the frame will take forever. There are so many parts needed and welding to do and I want some results. Also I would like the opportunity to iron out tuning issues before completing the project.

frame jig finished

2006-03-07T22:48:00.000-08:00

now the frame jig is finished there are no more excuses.
I must, at some stage, start putting steel into the thing.
Problem..... I saw a vna frame with no rust on ebay.
It would save me a lot of time, but I would end up with a standard vna frame rather than the re-inforced frame I plan to build out of my rusted wreck.
The frame strength problem is not so much handling and power, but the uprated braking.
Traditionally the front brakes and front suspension on these are very very poor, but stopping from only 40 mph was easy using the back brake. I am still using only the back brake on my current daily rider (LML t5 p200motor) as the front brake just doesn't work.
Once you start going over 100 km/h and riding it a little more like a motorcycle, the front disc brake will be used far more, thus putting the frame under more stress, as the weight of the rider and motor surges forward under heavy braking.

expenditure

2006-02-24T16:27:00.000-08:00

All In Australian Dollars (around 75 us cents) - rough prices from memory only

frame - 250- now using the cowls
headset - 65
speedo - 135
headlight- 65
tail light - 40
cowl hook - 15
floor - 50
GL frame - 400
GS tank - 100
chrome rims (nam) 120
tyres (mc18 sava) 110
front fender (scootrs) 60
PK fork (ebay germany) 150
engineering on fork - 160
wiring loom (beedspeed) - 50
switch (adapted for 12v dc) - ebay - 25
horn cover - 10
floor centre mat (nam) 10
cowl trim and fender trim (scootrs) - 20
GS160 repro seat (australian scooter parts) - 180
cables - 60
grips - 10
levers - 20
starter relay and switch - 20
battery tray - 25
brake pedal - 30
legshield toolbox - 90
horn - 20

subtotal- 19-09-06 - $2290

Engine

initial cost 700
freight - 80
stator, cdi and leads - 200
starter motor - 100
chrome kickstart (scootrs curved to look good on vna) - 50
rear hub - 120
carb and manifold (pwk knockoff from scootrs) - 140
malossi reed block - 160
long stroke crank - 200
MMW cylinder head for long stroke - 107
cosa clutch - 230

engine - 19-09-06 - $2087

TOTAL AS OF 19-09-06 - $4370

shopping list / inventory - continually updated

2006-02-24T16:06:00.000-08:00

forks. ..... from my research on the various chat rooms, etc I think the PK 125 fork will be the best bet. Others say rally ones are better, but as far as I can tell they handle like dogs and don't allow performance shocks like sebacs, or bitubo. Also I will add a disc brake conversion to this when there are funds available. ( I believe around 400 aud ).
cables........ must find out if i need p200 ones, or original ones
wheels and tyres (maybe even the new tubeless ones from australian scooterparts)
long seat .. I have a single seat from scootrs, but I am not comfortable on those because of my size (5'11" 105 kg)
floor rails
head bearings... I think i need both sets (pk and vna) but it is something I'll have to check
fuel line
wiring loom .. I am assuming that I need a p200 one
possibly a px tank with oil tank (If I go with a autolube carb such as a vortex)
paint.. interesting decision, but I like the idea of a matt colour in an extremely dark green. Either that or white. Matt-finish helps with covering up bumpy panel work. We will have to see what can be achieved with the panels.
seat hinges and catches
cowl rubber
rear brake pedal, cable.
stand

in transit...

headset
speedo
starter motor
kickstart

IN Hand

rusted frame
rear light
vna head bearings
new floor
frame jig
saddle seat/ buddy (don't want to use)
vna tank
legshield trim
keihin round slide carb
standard USA p200 head
p210 engine, complete without starter motor

Heaset paid for

2006-02-24T15:58:00.000-08:00

I paid 50 US bucks for the entire headset/handlebars .. from the ScooterShop in Orange, California. They look like they have a bit of surface rust, and I just hope they are not bent.
While I was at it I got carried away and ordered a NOS (new old stock) speedo, and a repro headlight assembly. (100 speedo, 50 headlight).

malossi 210 in transit

2006-02-23T13:17:00.000-08:00

This week I paid for the motor.
The beating heart of the Dirty Rocket, the powerplant, the very soul of my project.
Ok that was going a bit too far. I actually think the soul of one of these things resides in the series of numbers stamped on the frame. Somehow they get a hold of you, telling you "you could write yourself into a timeline that started in 1957." Without the vin(frame number) there is a piece of rusted steel on your bench while you wait for a complete restore project to come up.
Anyway enough about the frame (something I'll be putting off more and more) and more about the motor.
Details are not specific.. but here goes.
I put the word out for anyone who has a set of p200 engine cases, so I could have a starting point for the long, expensive and drawn out task of building the powerplant............
,.............. and paid for it. It was built 5-6 years ago and never used. Has been stored ever since.
known.....
p200 elec start
malossi 210
port matched
inlet timing 180
some kind of racing crank
missing part off stator plate

unknown........
clutch
carb
bearings
State of seals after storage

Waiting for my mate Naughty Pete to return to the state where he lives to pick it up.

THE MOTOR

2006-02-15T01:59:00.000-08:00

This is where all the engine information goes -

COSTING; (GUESS)
motor cases- 400 (lucky)
malossi kit -- 450
race crank -- 250
t5 gear ------ 50
carb (sidedraught or vortex)
---------------- 170
clutch ----------150
head - ----------130
bearings and seals
-----------------200
Gears ----------150

total ------------1950

Forget all that below. I am awaiting an engine from Sydney that already has these things..
see post: http://dirtyrocket.blogspot.com/2006/02/malossi-210-in-transit.html

More soon... when it arrives

frame jig

2006-02-15T01:35:00.000-08:00

Tonight I started building the frame into an adjustable jig.
When I weld the new floor on there is a high possibility of the frame twisting out of place, so I am taking no chances.
This is the boring bit so I won't bang on. See the curved allthread in the pics... I'll replace that with something stronger when the shops open.
I am moving the engine stuff to a post within this blog... and there's some good news.
PARTS UPDATE:

I may also be onto a set of PK forks with the hydraulics already installed.
Despite being offered headsets by three different people, at crunch time they seem to stop communicating.. getting a little paranoid now.
engine.... see other post

THE FRAME

2006-01-31T22:17:00.000-08:00

plan

build an adjustable jig to hold the frame in correct alignment. As the channel has been cut out, the heat from the welding will pull the frame this way and that.

is this the zen then?

2006-01-31T21:27:00.000-08:00

One of the hardest things when fixing up (or getting ready to prepare for the pre-fixing up preparations) a fucked up old scooter is hearing about the complete one that just got sold a month ago for the price you are going to end up paying for the bloody headset. I am on the verge of becoming even more determined to fix up the unfixable, no matter what the cost is to my sanity, wallet and marriage.
I must get this frame started before something comes up. Hours spent working on the steel are free (well, no dearer than hours on the computer looking at ebay, scooterbbs, yahoo groups scomo, sip, scooterworks, beedspeed, scootrs, australian scooter parts, gps imports, worb5, etc, etc.)
the next post will be my plan/ progress on frame strengthening. I will return to this and update as I go.

another day

2006-01-23T00:49:00.000-08:00

Today my floor arrived, along with my repro tail-light, tank rubber , hand grips and "sexy asian girl with scooters" calendar.
My spirits are uplifted after the headset disappointment, as now I can start working on the frame re-inforcing.
There is one hope on the headset front, and that is if the buyer messes about and the sale falls through. Fingers crossed as the seller seems to have much of what I need, and a good relationship with him will be of great benefit in the long run. Making knowledgable contacts in distant lands is not just handy, but is part of the fun of scootering.

On the frame front, I have all but decided to do the following:

cut out and remove spot welds on old floor
make steel jig to hold frame dead straight and in the correct position (as the centre channel has been compromised, the frame can easily twist until the floor is back in)
weld structural support inside frame channel
weld large pipe inside channel for cables and wiring
tack on plate to front section of channel ( been cut out by previous owner)
tack on new floor
repair rust holes in side cowls (not overly concerned as they are not structural).
take the frame to a panelbeater for a full weld up
get the panelbeater to smooth out legshield, cowls and ding near seat.
get the panelbeater to treat and prime frame.
spray it myself. The main reasons for spraying myself are..1) cheaper 2) I would rather have a straight looking old scooter than a bright shiny, half arsed restore job.. 3) I will probably mess up the paintwork while trying to fit motor/ cables/ tank etc. as I have no experience whatso-ever in this field.

first ebay upset

2006-01-22T12:53:00.000-08:00

just woke up and checked my ebay bid for a complete headset. The auction finished in the middle of the night and I was outbid. Now we get to find out how rare the split headsets are.
I'm hoping they are unwanted and unloved in the collector community. I bid up to 40 pounds (90 australian) and there was one other bidder (40.50).
Oh well, move on.

what I need..

2006-01-22T03:17:00.000-08:00

engine. p200. prefer elec start. (I'll deal with the engine bits in another blog - perhaps www.dirtyrocketengine.blogspot.com )
headset (prefer complete with handlebars) vna/vnb split headset version preferred as it is the one that was originally on the bike. using a split headset was used on this model only before going back to the one piece, eventually returning to the idea in the late 70's with the P series. I am guessing the advent of indicators and elec start meant more wiring, and therefore the return of the split headset made wiring easier. As I am planning on using p-series wiring, I think sticking closely to the unusual (and original) headset will suit the 'p' conversion quite well. (all guesswork of course).
forks. ..... from my research on the various chat rooms, etc I think the PK 125 fork will be the best bet. Others say rally ones are better, but as far as I can tell they handle like dogs and don't allow performance shocks like sebacs, or bitubo. Also I will add a disc brake conversion to this when there are funds available. ( I believe around 400 aud ).
New floor from scootrs in vietnam. Already ordered.. just hope I got the right one.
cables........ must find out if i need p200 ones, or original ones
wheels and tyres (maybe even the new tubeless ones from australian scooterparts)
long seat .. I have a single seat from scootrs, but I am not comfortable on those because of my size (5'11" 105 kg)
floor rails
head bearings... I think i need both sets (pk and vna) but it is something I'll have to check
fuel line
speedo ( assuming the headset I get doesn't come with one)
wiring loom .. I am assuming that I need a p200 one
possibly a px tank with oil tank (If I go with a autolube carb suck as a vortex)
rear light
side cowl fixings. The engine cover one clips on, and the left one bolts on permanently.
paint.. interesting decision, but I like the idea of a matt colour in an extremely dark green. Either that or white. Matt-finish helps with covering up bumpy panel work. We will have to see what can be achieved with the panels.
seat hingesm and catches
cowl rubber
rear brake pedal, cable.
...etc etc

what I'm starting with...

2006-01-22T00:22:00.000-08:00

FRAME:
bare frame. ....Before losing heart (and buying a harley style honda) the previous owner had the frame media blasted and has cut the centre channel of the floor out right up to the bottom of the horncast.

side cowls. ... both are stripped bare. Both have rusted through in pinholes around the bottom. The toolbox side is straight and the engine side needs beating ( in a do-able spot).

28mm round slide japanese carby (Keihin) - not sure if I'll use it, but I have it.

PX200 head (USA low compression) (probably won't need this either)

one of the stupidest projects ever

2006-01-21T23:01:00.000-08:00

I'll start with a disclaimer.
At this stage I don't know what I'm doing.
By the end of this I will.
This project is not about ending up with a restored vintage vespa.
This project is a combination of the following....
The desire to have my favorite kind of scooter. ie. old and ratty.
The desire to have a reliable, tuned p200 motor concealed in a vintage body.
A need to learn to work on a long term project, forced to be patient by the unavoidable wait for parts. Now that Mr. Miyage is dead, we are all on our own when trying to learn patience...
'overpriced parts on....... rust off'
So, here's the plan.
I have a basket case 57 vna vespa frame, which would be considered beyond hope by vintage collectors/ restorers. I, however, have a metal working factory and plan on repairing the rusted frame in a manner that will make it stronger than original. The main reason for this is that the frame was originally designed to have a pissweak 125 motor, and 8"wheels. I plan on higher speeds, higher loads and more efficient braking, each of which will put a rust damaged 50 year old frame under too much pressure.
Time for some pics. Next post will be the bits I have, and the bits I need.
(you may work out soon that I am using this blog as a way of remembering stuff).
derek